Building Your Own Cab

Forums Forums Amplifiers and cabinets Building Your Own Cab

This topic contains 10 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  Rob Franklin 3 days, 15 hours ago.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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  • #265

    Detroit Wrecker
    Participant

    Anyone on this forum ever build their own cabinet?  I want to build a basically marshall or orange clone. I’m capable of building. What I’m curious about is what kind of wood do people use to build the best sounding cab?

    As it turns out. You CAN fool all the people all of the time.

    #266

    WillsEasyGuitar
    Participant

    ive built speaker boxes before. they have to be tuned somewhat to the speakers being installed, but I’m not sure its the same thing since most cabinets are open in the back. if they were closed, I suspect there would be more punch.

    William Gelvin Owner Gelvin Guitars www.gelvinguitars.com
    Wills Easy Guitar PLUS https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCev1lk63kPLGpEsUFW9w6Mg
    Wills Easy Guitar Lite https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOSXvUss8W395OT0sz3Q2GA

    #268

    Detroit Wrecker
    Participant

    Yes, when I was a young buck, I built several 2 by 12 cabs for my car and I learned how to tune them. I have a old book and it explains basically how to build your cab around your specific speaker. I intend to use that philosophy in building my guitar cab.  Closed back will definitely give you more punch and you can put a tuned port in as well, if you like. I am actually considering 4 by 10 as well.  There’s definitely a science to it.

    As it turns out. You CAN fool all the people all of the time.

    #275

    Steve
    Participant

    I build my cabinets out of 3/4 Birch plywood. You *can* use MDF, OSB etc, but I find they don’t hold up as well. The birch plywood is a finish grade and takes a router well. If you’re looking at building a Marshall style 4×12, just google the measurements, and make sure to use a box joint on the 4 main corners. This will make it more rigid. I use scraps of plywood cut from the same sheet to do the cleats for the baffle and back. a 3/4″ round-over is really the only router bit you’ll need, which is for all edges and around the speaker openings. I prefer to use a jig saw and a curved sanding block for the speaker openings and then the round-over. Other than that, just remember to glue the joints well and take extra time with your tolex etc.  Oh, and when making the baffle and back, be sure to cut them loose, the Tolex will make it tight otherwise and you’ll be cussing for a week.

    website: www.pyrael.com, youtube: (Just search for "pyrael" as CD baby has most of my stuff uploaded)

    #295

    wado1942
    Participant

    I’d stick with plywood.  MDF and OSB are not only weaker but a lot heavier, plus the whole formaldehyde thing can’t be good for you.

    #317

    Detroit Wrecker
    Participant

    Thanks Steve!  Your thoughts are basically the same as mine.  I intended to use Birch ply wood.  However, I am looking for ideas and now wondering if I should try a tuned port inside a 4 by 12 basically a 1960B.  If the port ends up not working out, I can always block it off.  But if it does what it should, I should have a very nice thick sounding cab.  Thoughts?

    As it turns out. You CAN fool all the people all of the time.

    #318

    Steve
    Participant

    If I were to add a port to a guitar cabinet, i would probably do like a 3 or 4 inch high rectangular port at the very bottom of the baffle almost the full width (like a bassman combo). I would also only do it to the bottom cab in a stacked situation. There are sites that can give you quite specific measurements of the W/D/H of a port based upon everything from the speaker parameters all the way to the type of wood used. I’d refer to a site like that to get the tuning correct, maybe figure out what the lowest frequency you want to reproduce is, and then work from that and up in range. You can usually find out all the specs ever needed from the manufacturer’s website as well (I use WGS speakers and know they have full spec sheets, I’d assume the same for eminence, JVC, Celestion etc.) Alot of cabinets seem to have a (unwanted) resonance to them, which a tuned port can definitely help with. Also, I’d suggest using polyurethane glue (gorilla glue comes to mind) as it’s extremely rigid glue and won’t be so prone to dampening the sound at the joints and it fills gaps too 🙂

    I hope to see pics uploaded, sounds like it will be a nice cabinet!

     

    website: www.pyrael.com, youtube: (Just search for "pyrael" as CD baby has most of my stuff uploaded)

    #360

    Marko Perälä
    Participant

    Im gonna build my own 4 by 12 can someday. Slanted. But i dont have place where to do it. Yet. I hope to get 4 fane speakers for it.

    #492

    Detroit Wrecker
    Participant

    Thanks Steve!  Hopefully, it’s something I can do during the summer.  I will certainly post it here.

    As it turns out. You CAN fool all the people all of the time.

    #514

    Ed Dana
    Participant

    I would say Birch plywood or marine grade. The marine grade is more expensive, but gives you that extra quality component to last forever!

    Guitar Player and Singer in the LDDS Band.
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPEaakIslWfXOrVjZfR-ihg

    #561

    Rob Franklin
    Participant

    I Googled and d/l’d ’65 Marshal slant cab plans & built one with 5/8″ good on one side mystery plywood.
    Did the grill and tolex myself too.
    Loaded it with Peavy CS-10’s (in stereo), and s.o.b., mind you it’s totally gotta be by accident, but it ROCKS!

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